The Rose-Red City of Petra

Hailed as one of the Middle East’s most scenic and ancient roads, the now-asphalted Kings Highway was once a bustling caravan trade route between Egypt and Syria. As we take the drive through ‘Jordan’s Grand Canyon’, it’s hard not to think of those who have travelled this route before us – the Nabataeans, who chiselled their rose-red capital in Petra; the Romans, who adopted the route for themselves, and the Islamic pilgrims who have long taken the well-worn path to Mecca. Our short lives really do pale in comparison.

The steep and winding drive along the Kings Highway is longer than that of the Desert Highway or the coastal route along the Dead Sea but the sweeping views are more than worth it. I set up a timelapse on the dashboard, hoping to capture the beauty of the mustard-striped sandstone as we wind our way through the valley but I’m forced to abandon my venture when my stomach starts to squirm – here’s hoping Andre can work his magic and create something memorable from the footage!

Our first stop along the Kings Highway is at al-Karak. The one-way circuit that is designed to take us directly to the gate of the castle is baffling and we find ourselves taking the wrong turn more than once. After a couple of rounds of this, a few laughs, waves and kisses from the locals, we make it to the gate. At the rate we are going, it’s pretty hard to imagine anyone successfully besieging this castle.

By this point, we are feeling thankful that streets of al-Karak are relatively quiet because it seems to be the done thing on these narrow streets to double-park and hope that you aren’t side-swiped. We end up paying a guy a couple of dollars to mind the Chevy Shitbox for us while we take in the panoramic views of Jerusalem and the Dead Sea and explore the town. 

The castle itself is one the largest crusader castles in the Eastern Mediterranean but it was only under crusader rule for 46 years. Perfectly positioned to control the caravan route between Syria and Egypt and the pilgrimage route to Mecca, the Nabataeans, Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans all took a turn ruling the roost. During the Byzantine era, al-Karak housed the Church of Nazareth, which might have something to do with the fact that the town managed to remain predominantly Christian under Arab rule. Even today, the percentage of Christians living in al-Karak is higher than that of any other Jordanian town. 

We’re eager to see the rose-red city of Petra from every angle and in every light so we hightail it the rest of the way to Wadi Musa, trundling along the highway as quickly as our beloved Chevy will take us (which, evidently, isn't very fast). Much to our bemusement, the Chevy 'Bolt' starts to beep when we reach the 'top speed' of 118. We have reason to believe that the speed limiter is one of the Bolt's best features.

Lost to the Western world for hundreds of years, Petra was a closely-guarded secret, known only to the local Bedouins, until its rediscovery in 1812 by the Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt. After hearing rumours of the lost city while travelling through the Middle East, Johann was single-minded in his mission to lay eyes on the Nabatean capital. En route to Syria, he learned of a fellow scholar who had left Cairo in search of the lost city of Petra, never to be seen again (rumour has it, he was murdered). Careful not to repeat the same fate, Johann spent the next two years in Syria perfecting his Arabian disguise. I'm amazed that the local Bedouin that he hired to take him to the Treasury didn't greet him with a 'Nice try' and send him on his way. He must have made a pretty convincing Arab!

Petra is only marginally younger than the Great Pyramids of Egypt but many say it's the most magnificent ancient site still standing (I tend to agree). With such a rich history, it's astonishing to think that it wasn't until 2007 – some 18 years after Harrison Ford and Sean Connery burst forth from the Siq and walked deep into the labyrinths of the Treasury in their quest to find the Holy Grail – that Petra was voted one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

The Siq trail, winding through a narrow sandstone canyon, is the only entrance to Petra. With an entrance this difficult to find, it's not surprising that the Bedouins managed to keep the city a secret for so long. We pick our way along the candlelit trail, walking in silent anticipation behind our Bedouin guide, with the full moon glowing brightly above us. The two kilometre walk is just what we need to warm our bones on this cool desert night. 

As we round the final corner, we catch our first glimpse of the 40-metre high façade. You can (almost) hear the collective sound of jaws dropping. At least 1500 candles light up the Treasury before us, giving the sandstone rock a deep red glow. The result is absolutely stunning and it's enough just to sit there, huddled towards the back of the small group, taking photos and sipping sweet tea as the local Bedouins take turns serenading us with their songs. 

It seems no work of Man’s creative hand,
by labour wrought as wavering fancy planned;
But from the rock as if by magic grown,
eternal, silent, beautiful, alone!

Not virgin-white like that old Doric shrine,
where erst Athena held her rites divine;
Not saintly-grey, like many a minster fane,
that crowns the hill and consecrates the plain;

But rose-red as if the blush of dawn,
that first beheld them were not yet withdrawn;
The hues of youth upon a brow of woe,
which Man deemed old two thousand years ago,
match me such marvel save in Eastern clime,
a rose-red city half as old as time.

~ John Burgon, 1845